JCA OWNERS!!! (RE)JOIN THE JET CITY LOUNGE!!!

[RoosterLP]

I like the salt & pepper cloth. I'm going to do one so I can change my panel when the mood suits, and try to be as cool as you guys

I was surprised at how easy it was to make the panel, the hardest part was finding a 1/2" thick piece of wood, as I don't have a planer. Routed the bottom edge to get that curved feature and used grillcloth and piping from mojotone. the head panel turned out better than my speaker grill cloth

Let's see pics and hear more about your homemade cab. I built up a 2x12 that's half Thiele with the requisite EVM-12L speaker and half partial-open-back with a Boogie MC90. Turned out pretty good for a prototype. Gonna build a bigger one if/when I change out my 4x12 to a 'real' one (my current guy is pretty tiny, and I matched the 2x12 to it's width).

Started this project because I wanted to add an extension cab to my vt30. Started with 30 some year old cabinets that came out of my parents kitchen. They're laminated something, could be birch, i'm not sure. Since I mostly practice at home in my small "office" in the basement (no actual office type work has ever occurred in this room, its full of guitars, amps, drums and keyboard...for the kids lol), I wanted something that pointed up at me, instead of at my shins. So I attempted to make a copy of this http://www.mojotone.com/amp-parts/cabinets-custom-shop/Mojotone-Angled-Guitar-Amplifier-Speaker-Extension-Cabinet#.UUB9Tlfp8aM It was louder, but it wasn't enough, hence the jca50. had to wait for santa to bring me the head and all the grill cloth, piping, hardware. Definitely learned a lot making it. In the end only saved about a hundred bucks doing it myself (even with free wood) and spent a lot of hours in the shop. It was a fun project but not sure I'll do it again. Tolex is a pain! Corners are not fun, and corner covers are your best friend. Its closed back with 2 Weber Sig12b's. They're ok, but might upgrade to some better weber's when I get some extra cash.

[Devin]

Grime, your amp looks awesome!

[racerevlon]

Try a Jet City Afterburner. One OD stage and a +20DB boost, in a single pedal. For cheep...

Yeah, but the thing is, I'm not looking to boost gain - just want to raise volume. Won't slamming the input with a 20db increase just cause mass clipping?

Yup--It's not a clean boost. Only works with the Overdrive engaged and boosts the overdrive. You can set the OD gain low and level high, then the boost works "somewhat" like a volume boost, but for pure solo boost I'd look at the CAE or MXR units. That said, the JCA100HDM sounds KILLER with the Afterburner slamming the front end. Set the level even with the amp volume with the pedal disengaged, set the OD to about 10-11 o'clock, tone and boost to taste, and WOW!! Totally new beast--pulled the OD channel gain down to about 2 and was still crushing it with the Afterburner on. I dare say I might like it better than my TS-9/SD-1 setup. Great Overdrive, especially for the price!!

[Tortuga]

thanks guys! I'm digging the old school look of it, thinking about getting one of them horizontal
JCA logos that they're putting on the new VH(?) models

Send me the 333 logo when you're done with it. I think I'm one of the few that likes 'em, and I'm planning to make a few other baffles

So i've got the 5751 in V1, ECC803 in v2 or v3 and a ECC83 in the other, can't remember which. And a AT7 in V5 (PI). If the wife and kids let me get some time this weekend I'll do some swapping around and let you know what I find out. They're pretty tolerant of my amp fiddling, I even get to turn it up to 5 on OD if no little ones are napping. Wife told me with my old amp (VOX VT30) she could tell what room in the basement i was in, now she says she can tell/feel exactly where the amp is, it rumbles the floors quite nicely

Let us know how it goes. Planning to do some of my own destruction on Friday

I was surprised at how easy it was to make the panel, the hardest part was finding a 1/2" thick piece of wood, as I don't have a planer. Routed the bottom edge to get that curved feature and used grillcloth and piping from mojotone. the head panel turned out better than my speaker grill cloth

MDF is the only way to fly - 1/4, 1/2, 5/8, 3/4 all readily available. Mine is built up from two thicknesses of 1/4" - see below for more info...

Started this project because I wanted to add an extension cab to my vt30. Started with 30 some year old cabinets that came out of my parents kitchen. They're laminated something, could be birch, i'm not sure. Since I mostly practice at home in my small "office" in the basement (no actual office type work has ever occurred in this room, its full of guitars, amps, drums and keyboard...for the kids lol), I wanted something that pointed up at me, instead of at my shins. So I attempted to make a copy of this http://www.mojotone.com/amp-parts/cabinets-custom-shop/Mojotone-Angled-Guitar-Amplifier-Speaker-Extension-Cabinet#.UUB9Tlfp8aM It was louder, but it wasn't enough, hence the jca50. had to wait for santa to bring me the head and all the grill cloth, piping, hardware. Definitely learned a lot making it. In the end only saved about a hundred bucks doing it myself (even with free wood) and spent a lot of hours in the shop. It was a fun project but not sure I'll do it again. Tolex is a pain! Corners are not fun, and corner covers are your best friend. Its closed back with 2 Weber Sig12b's. They're ok, but might upgrade to some better weber's when I get some extra cash.

Very cool - I like the idea. I'm constantly fiddling with speaker placement to make sure that I'm getting maximum brain damage whenever practicing Looks like you did a great job with it, and it's certainly more stable than putting the thing up on a chair or tilting it back against the wall or something. I actually haven't tried tackling tolex - I've been cheating with truck bed liner, which is what I used on my 2x12. Looks ok in the house, but gawd help me when I take it out - it'll be a scratched / chipped nightmare. I hear ya on the money, too - I keep thinking I'll build a 'real' 4x12 cabinet to save money, but I've run the numbers, and I think it's far cheaper to get a used cab with the speakers I want (V30s) than to try to piece one together myself.

[Tortuga]

Grime, your amp looks awesome!

Thanks man! I'm pretty proud of the way it turned out. I wanted to use the expanded metal for my baffle like a lot of other guys were doing, but I thought the edges looked a bit unfinished, plus they were having to screw them down, making tube changes / replacement a bit more of a pain. Decided to steal FRPC's idea of using velcro and build up a frame. It's basically a sandwich of two layers of 1/4" MDF that I joined together with dowel pins around the perimeter and a channel cut into each half that allows for the expanded metal to fit into. Turned out pretty good, and lets me see all the tubey goodness lighting up inside. Here's a couple pics, if anyone's interested.







Only thing i HATE is that my headshell came warped. The top sags down (from side to side), and makes things match up not so good - especially when I try to push my nice, straight baffle up, and have the corners not meet at all. You can kind of see it in this picture below. Nobody else notices, but I sure do.

Doug White - are you listening?!?!

[Devin]

^ lulz!

[RoosterLP]

I hear ya on the money, too - I keep thinking I'll build a 'real' 4x12 cabinet to save money, but I've run the numbers, and I think it's far cheaper to get a used cab with the speakers I want (V30s) than to try to piece one together myself.

exactly, I've come to the conclusion that you should only build a speaker box if you:
a) are going to make something really cheap, no tolex, have spare parts on hand etc
b) just enjoy a good wood working project
c) are wanting something very custom
d) are planning on staining/poly (much cheaper and easier than tolex)

i kind of fell into b and c

I checked out your metal grill quite a bit from your posts at HCOF. I was heavily leaning towards that design just because you can see the tubes! you did an excellent job with the sandwich construction, looks nice! I thought the same thing about the sagging of the boards that the head is made from.
We gotta remember, its a "budget" piece of gear. concessions must be made

[NOSNOR]

First, thanks GRIMESPACE for suggesting me this forum and this thread
I saw here slope mod and decide to do it. I bought mini Switch but I was't sure about resistors. In instruction of this mod 1W resistors were suggested. In my local electronic store they have just 1/2W and 2W resistors. Can I do the slope mod with 1/2W or 2W resistors (and which is better?), or do I have to do it with 1W resistors?

[Tortuga]

I hear ya on the money, too - I keep thinking I'll build a 'real' 4x12 cabinet to save money, but I've run the numbers, and I think it's far cheaper to get a used cab with the speakers I want (V30s) than to try to piece one together myself.

exactly, I've come to the conclusion that you should only build a speaker box if you:
a) are going to make something really cheap, no tolex, have spare parts on hand etc
b) just enjoy a good wood working project
c) are wanting something very custom
d) are planning on staining/poly (much cheaper and easier than tolex)

i kind of fell into b and c

I checked out your metal grill quite a bit from your posts at HCOF. I was heavily leaning towards that design just because you can see the tubes! you did an excellent job with the sandwich construction, looks nice! I thought the same thing about the sagging of the boards that the head is made from.
We gotta remember, its a "budget" piece of gear. concessions must be made

That's a pretty good analysis on the pros and cons of building the speaker box. I'm right on a and c - had all the materials, had the plans (at least for the Thiele), I'm a cheap bastard that will do anything DIY if I can, and my box was going to be entirely custom - it had to be a certain size (to fit exactly underneath my 4x12, which is smaller than normal), and was going to essentially be two different 1x12s put together. Option B is a given for me, as I'm already into amatuer woodworking and have a pretty cool small shop behind my garage. I'll try to get a photo up on my 2x12 this weekend.

First, thanks GRIMESPACE for suggesting me this forum and this thread
I saw here slope mod and decide to do it. I bought mini Switch but I was't sure about resistors. In instruction of this mod 1W resistors were suggested. In my local electronic store they have just 1/2W and 2W resistors. Can I do the slope mod with 1/2W or 2W resistors (and which is better?), or do I have to do it with 1W resistors?

Hey man - good to have you - welcome to the happiest place on (virtual) earth. Now, if I could lure the rest of those guys on the JCA mod thread at HCAF - they've been going completely nuts over there and we need their talent here!

Mini switch is ok - should be a DPDT if you're intending to switch two different values, which I assume you're planning to do. 47k is the stock value and 33k is what CTN and I used, although I've heard 39k makes for good noise, too Don't quote me on this, but I think all the resistors in the signal path are 1/2 watt. CTN went with 1 watt, probably because he's extra brootalz on his stuff and needed the extra security You should be 200% (or is it 400%) covered with a 2 watt resistor, but it's going to be bulky. I wish I could give you a definitive answer - I'm hoping someone will chime in and confim that you'll be ok with the 1/2 watt.

What are you looking for with the slope mod? What kind of music do you play?

[Tortuga]

How appropriate that I celebrate my 333rd posting here!

[Hipster Salad]

I see a lot of great evolutions with the JCAs here. I especially like the wedge cab.

Anyone using the Overdrive gain past 7? I'd like to mod that part of the amp to make the gain at full tilt to equal how it currently lies when at 7, maybe 8 at the most.

How about the pots? I've read that the pot values on the SLO are different than the Hot Rod series, somewhat making the SLO brighter and Hot Rods darker in tone.

I'm eager to start with the "SLO" mods on my JCA100. As far as parts are concerned, is it ok to get everything at Radio Shack, or would it be better to buy from a place like Mousers?

[edge11]

Welp... did the deed this past weekend. Two new mods and cleaned up my old ones.

First up, relocated my scoop mod switch to make way for a new channel-changing switch. Basically, when the footswitch loop is open, the amp will be on the overdrive channel. Closing (shorting) that loop puts it on the normal channel. A simple SPST switch wired in parallel to the footswitch jack does the job. Only thing is, you have to have the switch in the open (OD) position to use the footswitch. I'm half-thinking about wiring in an LED to the spare hole I still have in the front panel (was there from a previous mod that I removed), using a SPDT or DPDT. Not sure I'll like it, though, because that light would be on all the time whenever I'd be using the footswitch - it wouldn't turn on/off with the footswitch position. I spent some time cleaning up the wiring for the older mods, too, so my OCD personality is feeling much better.

Here's the before - clean/crunch switch is on the right and scoop is on the left. The clean/crunch switch has three positions - middle is crunch (normal), and the two other positions use different resistor values (39k and 68k) for slightly different clean settings. The scoop switch engages a capacitor to ground from a 'T-filter' (according to Edge11). You can see I had two extra holes from the mods I removed prior.



And here's the T-filter - two 1meg resistors replacing 2.2meg R34 with the cap connected to the center junction point.



Here's the finished product - scoop relocated and rewired to the right, channel switch on the left



Next, I duplicated CTN's work for a voicing switch on the slope resistor, which adjusts the tone of the EQ section. Here's the finished product - normal resistor (47k) in the down position, alternate one (33k) in the up position.



I really took my time with this - didn't want to have any problems (obviously), and had been concerned about my wiring from the first time, as the hiss level was pretty high after doing the first mods. I love it when the amp fires up perfect on the first attempt after doing these things - zero problems this time and I think the hiss may be a bit better now.

As I stated before, the clean switch is pretty cool - you just have to watch for the volume drop, so you can't realistically expect to be switching between clean and crunch on channel one while playing - it's just too drastic. But, the sound is pretty clean, and the scoop mod does do quite a bit to change the tonality of that first channel - not sure which I like better, so I'm glad I set it up to run stock or scooped based on what I'm feeling. I'm also really happy I put in the channel switch. No more footswitch required.

The new slope resistor voicing switch is something I'm REALLY liking. First time I switched it on, I was shocked at how much the amp seems to sing on high notes. It definitely seems to emphasize the mids / upper mids and makes pinch harmonics come out like crazy. When I'm playing leads, it seems to have give the overall tone a more elastic quality to it that I really like, much like what I imagine the amp would sound like with EL34s . Best few bucks I could have spent, next to the depth knob.

Here's a finish shot of the front with all switches intact. Yes, I do have the extra hole to contend with - either a plug or an LED will find its way there eventually. I'm ecstatic with the way it sounds now, and love the fact that this is all DIY. Thanks CTN for lighting the fire under my butt to do this!

Good job. The t-filter is something that soldano took that was inspired by an older amp (can't recall which one off the top of my head right now).
For me I love the clean+scoop mod, get me a very touch sensitive sound. What values are you doing with the slope switch? You into clean tones alot or no?

[edge11]

I hear ya on the money, too - I keep thinking I'll build a 'real' 4x12 cabinet to save money, but I've run the numbers, and I think it's far cheaper to get a used cab with the speakers I want (V30s) than to try to piece one together myself.

exactly, I've come to the conclusion that you should only build a speaker box if you:
a) are going to make something really cheap, no tolex, have spare parts on hand etc
b) just enjoy a good wood working project
c) are wanting something very custom
d) are planning on staining/poly (much cheaper and easier than tolex)

i kind of fell into b and c

I checked out your metal grill quite a bit from your posts at HCOF. I was heavily leaning towards that design just because you can see the tubes! you did an excellent job with the sandwich construction, looks nice! I thought the same thing about the sagging of the boards that the head is made from.
We gotta remember, its a "budget" piece of gear. concessions must be made

That's a pretty good analysis on the pros and cons of building the speaker box. I'm right on a and c - had all the materials, had the plans (at least for the Thiele), I'm a cheap bastard that will do anything DIY if I can, and my box was going to be entirely custom - it had to be a certain size (to fit exactly underneath my 4x12, which is smaller than normal), and was going to essentially be two different 1x12s put together. Option B is a given for me, as I'm already into amatuer woodworking and have a pretty cool small shop behind my garage. I'll try to get a photo up on my 2x12 this weekend.

First, thanks GRIMESPACE for suggesting me this forum and this thread
I saw here slope mod and decide to do it. I bought mini Switch but I was't sure about resistors. In instruction of this mod 1W resistors were suggested. In my local electronic store they have just 1/2W and 2W resistors. Can I do the slope mod with 1/2W or 2W resistors (and which is better?), or do I have to do it with 1W resistors?

Hey man - good to have you - welcome to the happiest place on (virtual) earth. Now, if I could lure the rest of those guys on the JCA mod thread at HCAF - they've been going completely nuts over there and we need their talent here!

Mini switch is ok - should be a DPDT if you're intending to switch two different values, which I assume you're planning to do. 47k is the stock value and 33k is what CTN and I used, although I've heard 39k makes for good noise, too Don't quote me on this, but I think all the resistors in the signal path are 1/2 watt. CTN went with 1 watt, probably because he's extra brootalz on his stuff and needed the extra security You should be 200% (or is it 400%) covered with a 2 watt resistor, but it's going to be bulky. I wish I could give you a definitive answer - I'm hoping someone will chime in and confim that you'll be ok with the 1/2 watt.

What are you looking for with the slope mod? What kind of music do you play?

Like I told you before, Let me get less busy and I'll bring the mod threads over here.

[Jay]

I see a lot of great evolutions with the JCAs here. I especially like the wedge cab.

Anyone using the Overdrive gain past 7? I'd like to mod that part of the amp to make the gain at full tilt to equal how it currently lies when at 7, maybe 8 at the most.

How about the pots? I've read that the pot values on the SLO are different than the Hot Rod series, somewhat making the SLO brighter and Hot Rods darker in tone.

I'm eager to start with the "SLO" mods on my JCA100. As far as parts are concerned, is it ok to get everything at Radio Shack, or would it be better to buy from a place like Mousers?

I like Mouser for most stuff. Better selection of parts and usually cheaper.

To bleed some gain, you could reduce the value of the load resistors on the OD channel a touch to lessen the gain. As far as the JCA being a bit darker than the SLO, the SLO also has a stiffer main filter section. Four 200uf caps in series/parallel and two more 200uf for the screens, where the JCA has two 220uf in series for the power tube plates and two 100uf for the screens. SLO has bigger, tighter bass and a little sharper highs. JCA has a little more sag, kind of close to a Recto.

[Jay]

Can someone take a pic of the channel switching jack on their amps? 22, 50, and 100? I think the 22 is the oddball, but I have an idea for the front panel channel switching for them all. I was reading the thread from HCAF abot alternate switching from the front panel. Seems easy to do, but if you replace the jack with a 3-pole shorting jack, you can make sure the footswitch is the dominant switch when plugged in. Otherwise, you have to make sure the panel switch is shut off or the amp won't change channels.

[Tortuga]

I see a lot of great evolutions with the JCAs here. I especially like the wedge cab.

Anyone using the Overdrive gain past 7? I'd like to mod that part of the amp to make the gain at full tilt to equal how it currently lies when at 7, maybe 8 at the most.

How about the pots? I've read that the pot values on the SLO are different than the Hot Rod series, somewhat making the SLO brighter and Hot Rods darker in tone.

I'm eager to start with the "SLO" mods on my JCA100. As far as parts are concerned, is it ok to get everything at Radio Shack, or would it be better to buy from a place like Mousers?

I run my OD gain at 3 with the SG (hotter pickups) and 4 with my Carvin. That's all I ever need. Getting past noon starts getting really muddy and loose - not at all what I want to deal with.

Gonna have to defer to Edge on the SLO mods. Would love to hear more about it - especially before & after clips.

Parts are pretty much online sourced these days. There's a crapload of places out there, and I believe that Mouser is a good one.

I was kidding about modding that Earhart, by the way.

[Tortuga]

Good job. The t-filter is something that soldano took that was inspired by an older amp (can't recall which one off the top of my head right now).
For me I love the clean+scoop mod, get me a very touch sensitive sound. What values are you doing with the slope switch? You into clean tones alot or no?

Hiya, Edge - glad to see you. How'd things go with the internship at Fender?

Thanks for the compliment - it means a lot coming from you. Slope switch is 47k (stock) and 33k, as noted above. I've heard that 39k is also being used by others, but I really like the vibe I get with leads on the 33k. It took a while for me to get into the clean mod, but after playing more and more with my Fender Pro Reverb, have found that the JCA is getting pretty close to that tone. As I also said earlier in this thread, I'm glad I put the scoop on a separate switch because I like both settings - normal (no scoop) is big and beefy; scooped is thinner / more chimey, with greater dynamics.

I know most would join in my appreciation for your pioneering work with these mods, Edge! I hope you do find time to come back, at least occasionally.

<<<and now that I'm done smooching up >>>

I've been holding off building a JCA mod thread in the DIY area, hoping you'd be able to do something with it. This JET CITY LOUNGE thread was really intended as a general gathering place, to find information about what others are doing with their amp (not so much how, just getting ideas), and where to find more information. That said, I think it's real important that someone who has the time to keep a new mods thread updated (especially the first few postings, as you've done in the past) start the thing. I'd be happy to do so - I've already grabbed snapshots of a lot of the content over at HCAF, just in case the thing did a Titanic on us, and could put together a consolidation / summary of the good stuff so's we can start getting more technical without overburdening this thread.

So, what do you think? If I start it, you'll have first say on anything that goes on the first few threads I reserve, but won't have to worry about keeping it up. Let us know.

...and to the rest of you Jet City Pirates , what do you think about it? DIY thread for the tech-heavy stuff? I've got some how-to's that I've been anxious to post but haven't yet - I'm sure a bunch of the rest of you do, too.

[Tortuga]

Can someone take a pic of the channel switching jack on their amps? 22, 50, and 100? I think the 22 is the oddball, but I have an idea for the front panel channel switching for them all. I was reading the thread from HCAF abot alternate switching from the front panel. Seems easy to do, but if you replace the jack with a 3-pole shorting jack, you can make sure the footswitch is the dominant switch when plugged in. Otherwise, you have to make sure the panel switch is shut off or the amp won't change channels.

Here's a picture of my rear-panel jack and the switch I installed to let me change channels from the front panel. Like I said above, the only caveat is that it requires me to have the switch off (OD) in order to use the footswitch.



Switch is on the left

[Tortuga]

I have a JCA100HDM, JCA100H, and a JCA22H. The Ebtech Line Level Shifter streets for $75.99. I got mine free from Jemsite.com for doing an official gear review, if memory serves.

Hey, racerevlon - sorry about the delay (kinda got carried away with all the modding I've been doing) - I'm posting up the line level shifter on the front page right now.

[Jase01]

Hey guys, just finished the channel switch mod. Put a LED in too just to pimp it a bit more. haha
Man I havent checked here for a day or two, you guys have been BUSY!. I got a bit of catching up to do......
Next is the slope mod, just waiting for some parts. Oh, the clean/crunch mod can someone explain excactly what it does?
Does it reduce the gain in the OD channel as well?

[Jase01]

I'm keen on trying this mod but am a complete dunce when it comes to translating the schematic to reality, could some kind soul
help me out with a idiot proof diagram?? please. For the 22h..

[Tortuga]

<<<DUPLICATE POST - CAN BE DELETED>>>

[Tortuga]

Hey guys, just finished the channel switch mod. Put a LED in too just to pimp it a bit more. haha
Man I havent checked here for a day or two, you guys have been BUSY!. I got a bit of catching up to do......
Next is the slope mod, just waiting for some parts. Oh, the clean/crunch mod can someone explain excactly what it does?
Does it reduce the gain in the OD channel as well?

Good job on this, Jase! If I didn't have the extra holes in my front panel, I probably would have put the switch where you did (between Crunch & OD, where it'd be more intuitive). I'm just OCD enough that I may move it at some point.

I'm gonna help you with the next bit, but you owe me a diagram on how you did the light and switch. Does the footswitch still work properly, and does it only function with the new panel switch is in one position? And, is it just me or do you have a tube about to jump out of its socket?

I ran through the effects of the Clean setting above, and wont reiterate here (I'm already over my word limit for this entire posting). Simple clean (which is all I did) and the SLO Clean/Crunch switch only affect the crunch channel.

I'm keen on trying this mod but am a complete dunce when it comes to translating the schematic to reality, could some kind soul help me out with a idiot proof diagram?? please. For the 22h..

Not sure where your confusion is - the 6 dots indicate the solder points on a DPDT on-on switch (looking from the back). Edge wired that so that it switches in the extra 470 (putting total resistance back to the stock value of almost 1meg) and then kicks in the resistor to ground (other side of the switch) that pulls the gain down. When the switch is in the other position, the added 470 is out of the circuit, leaving just the higher-gain crunch.

You'd wire a the new 470k to the outer lugs on the switch, and the 39k or 68k to the lower-left lug as shown in the diagram - if you extend the 'leg' of that resistor to the center pole (center-left), you'll take care of the jumper. The switch connects to the board at 4 points. I believe you unsolder and lift one side of C30 (the side that's common to R42 and C28) and solder a wire from that lifted leg to the center-right lug. Then, you solder a wire from where C30 used to live to center-right on the switch. A jumper connected from R42 (the lower side on the diagram where it joins VR9) goes to upper-left lug, then you'll need to find a ground on the board or chassis to wire the new 39k/68k resistor to. You'll need to run through all of this with a continuity meter, of course, to make sure I'm right about pulling one side of C30 for your interrupt point.

This is all relevant to the JCA50 diagram. Unfortunately, I'm out of time and have to run to work, so I can't translate to the 22. If all this makes sense, you'd probably be better served working through it to translate it yourself - all the diagrams you need are on the HCAF mods thread (at least untll they get copied here).

If all your after is getting a clean setting (and a very nice one, at that), you may want to consider doing the simpler mod - that's what I did, and I'm quite happy with it. I'm also happy with the amount of gain on the crunch setting. If I haven't convinced you otherwise, just follow the 'dots' on the diagram you posted as I describe.[/quote]

[indienoise]

Thanks for posting that pic up there...I ordered a rectangle logo for my JCA100H when Doug first put them up for sale...and it's still sitting in its shipping box, lulz. I had wondered about getting screws small enough to fit the logo with bolts big enough to hold it in...hadn't considered using washers. (See how mechanically inclined I am?)
Also, I guess I never really checked in this thread...depth modded JCA100H and JCA24S here.

[Tortuga]

Thanks for posting that pic up there...I ordered a rectangle logo for my JCA100H when Doug first put them up for sale...and it's still sitting in its shipping box, lulz. I had wondered about getting screws small enough to fit the logo with bolts big enough to hold it in...hadn't considered using washers. (See how mechanically inclined I am?)
Also, I guess I never really checked in this thread...depth modded JCA100H and JCA24S here.

Ayup, washers work great - glad to be of assistance

...and, if you're not using your old 333 logo after you change it out, I'd love to take it off your hands. I'm making a couple more baffles, and want to have the logo on them (yes, I actually do like the old one ) so's I can change them when the mood hits .