GRIMESPACE wrote:This thread needs moar pics!
Don't tease us, man - show us how!
I can show you a few more pics. There are plenty of YouTube videos that describe the process in detail. The way I do this is by no means the only way and probably not even the most popular way.
First I make sure the fretboard is flat by adjusting the trussrod.

Then I color the tops of the frets with a sharpie.

Next I tune the guitar and doublecheck the neck straightness. Then I use the sanding beam to sand the frets flat until the sharpie marks are all gone. I do this with the strings on and tuned.
Sorry, no pics of that part.
Tape up the guitar to protect it.

Mark the tops of the frets again. Then use the fret crowning file to put the rounded shape back. You stop filing when only a thin sharpie line remains. That way you're not decreasing the height of the fret any further.

Then I sand with 400 grit, 800 grit, 1000 grit, 000 steel wool, and finally metal polish with a dremel.

Finished
This is what I use to level my frets with, but there are many different ways to do it. I use regular concave fret crowning files (as opposed to triangle or "little bone"). For jumbo frets, I have a diamond concave file. For medium frets, I use a normal concave crowning file. Having used both, I would say that I prefer the non diamond file. I also have a file that will fix rough fret ends. A few minutes spent with that tool can make a $500 guitar feel like a $1200 guitar.
Before doing this I could tune the open strings, but chords would sound out of tune. Or I could tune it so a G chord for example would sound in tune. The switch to a C chord which would sound out of tune. After recrowning this is no longer a problem.