JCA OWNERS!!! (RE)JOIN THE JET CITY LOUNGE!!!

[Jay]

Can someone take a pic of the channel switching jack on their amps? 22, 50, and 100? I think the 22 is the oddball, but I have an idea for the front panel channel switching for them all. I was reading the thread from HCAF abot alternate switching from the front panel. Seems easy to do, but if you replace the jack with a 3-pole shorting jack, you can make sure the footswitch is the dominant switch when plugged in. Otherwise, you have to make sure the panel switch is shut off or the amp won't change channels.

Here's a picture of my rear-panel jack and the switch I installed to let me change channels from the front panel. Like I said above, the only caveat is that it requires me to have the switch off (OD) in order to use the footswitch.

Perfect. Take that plug out and replace it with this: http://www.amplifiedparts.com/products/W-SC-12A

It has three terminals. One sleeve terminal, one tip terminal, and one tip shunt. Hook the black wire and one of the switch wires to the sleeve terminal (ground) hook the factory blue wire to the tip terminal and hook the other switch wire to the shunt terminal (small inner terminal that contacts the inside of the tip terminal). So, with the footswitch plug in the jack, it takes the panel switch out of the equation and works with the footswitch only. Remove the footswitch from the jack and the front panel switch is back in action. Simple and stupid mod, yes. Convenient? Also yes. Plus, the part is only 2 bux.

[Tortuga]

Fuk Yeah! I'm all over this. I was thinking that all I needed to do was switch the front switch out. Just hadn't hit me yet. Thanks for this perfect solution.

...I'm getting there - only at 45, I'm getting there a little too quickly anymores

[indienoise]

Thanks for posting that pic up there...I ordered a rectangle logo for my JCA100H when Doug first put them up for sale...and it's still sitting in its shipping box, lulz. I had wondered about getting screws small enough to fit the logo with bolts big enough to hold it in...hadn't considered using washers. (See how mechanically inclined I am?)
Also, I guess I never really checked in this thread...depth modded JCA100H and JCA24S here.

Ayup, washers work great - glad to be of assistance

...and, if you're not using your old 333 logo after you change it out, I'd love to take it off your hands. I'm making a couple more baffles, and want to have the logo on them (yes, I actually do like the old one ) so's I can change them when the mood hits .

My 333 logo is still attached to the standard black/blue baffle, but I'm planning on keeping just in case the urge strikes, same as you. I didn't dislike it, it's just how the amp was shipped to me.

[Tortuga]

Thanks for posting that pic up there...I ordered a rectangle logo for my JCA100H when Doug first put them up for sale...and it's still sitting in its shipping box, lulz. I had wondered about getting screws small enough to fit the logo with bolts big enough to hold it in...hadn't considered using washers. (See how mechanically inclined I am?)
Also, I guess I never really checked in this thread...depth modded JCA100H and JCA24S here.

Ayup, washers work great - glad to be of assistance

...and, if you're not using your old 333 logo after you change it out, I'd love to take it off your hands. I'm making a couple more baffles, and want to have the logo on them (yes, I actually do like the old one ) so's I can change them when the mood hits .

My 333 logo is still attached to the standard black/blue baffle, but I'm planning on keeping just in case the urge strikes, same as you. I didn't dislike it, it's just how the amp was shipped to me.

So, you're using something else for a baffle now? Same expanded metal as me or something else? Pics, please!

[indienoise]

Thanks for posting that pic up there...I ordered a rectangle logo for my JCA100H when Doug first put them up for sale...and it's still sitting in its shipping box, lulz. I had wondered about getting screws small enough to fit the logo with bolts big enough to hold it in...hadn't considered using washers. (See how mechanically inclined I am?)
Also, I guess I never really checked in this thread...depth modded JCA100H and JCA24S here.

Ayup, washers work great - glad to be of assistance

...and, if you're not using your old 333 logo after you change it out, I'd love to take it off your hands. I'm making a couple more baffles, and want to have the logo on them (yes, I actually do like the old one ) so's I can change them when the mood hits .

My 333 logo is still attached to the standard black/blue baffle, but I'm planning on keeping just in case the urge strikes, same as you. I didn't dislike it, it's just how the amp was shipped to me.

So, you're using something else for a baffle now? Same expanded metal as me or something else? Pics, please!

Same as what's on the back...


I think that's the way they shipped the 100HDM...which this is not, it was a standard 100H, just was modded by the previous owner

[Tortuga]

Oh - that's one of the baffles that JCA used to sell. It's been a while since I saw one, except on the HDMs. Definitely needs something to brighten up the look, but very cool, I think the newer-style logo will look great on it!

[Jase01]

thanks Grim, I kinda get everything, the switch etc. but was having trouble locating C30 on the 22h schematic, ( maybe I'm blind?)
Also does it matter where you connect the ground to? Anywhere as long as it's ground......
Yep, had another look and can't get my head around the C30 mystery, please translate to the 22h.

For the LED I just opened up the footswitch and had a squiz. It's got a 67k 1/4 watt resistor going from the outside lug on the switch to
the LED. I used some shielded cable I had left over from a pedal build and ran the wire around the PCB. Like the other posts say its just soldered to the footswitch jack. I soldered it straight on top, didn't have to remove anything.
I haven't tested to see how the pedal and switch play together, I was just happy that I got it to work!! lol

[Tortuga]

thanks Grim, I kinda get everything, the switch etc. but was having trouble locating C30 on the 22h schematic, ( maybe I'm blind?)
Also does it matter where you connect the ground to? Anywhere as long as it's ground......
Yep, had another look and can't get my head around the C30 mystery, please translate to the 22h.

Jase - don't hold me to this, but looking at the two schematics and reviewing the last few pages on the mod thread lead me to belive that C30 on the 50H is C2 on the 22H, and R42 on the 50H is equivalent to R5 on the 22H. It's only slightly different in that particular part of the circuit, since C28 on the 50H is missing on the 22H. Borderline11 refers to that capacitor here: http://www.harmonycentral.com/t5/Amps/J ... 8#M6187792 . I believe he implemented the switch without worrying about the cap, which he deems a tone modifier on the 50. Unfortunately, I'm at the extent of my knowledge with this. I'd say you're safe in pulling the leg of C2 (22H) as I describe and go from there, disregarding the change for C28, since your amp obviously isn't running that cap. You might just want to post this as a question over at the HCAF thread, and see what you get. If I had my way, Motocooney, Soulcrusher_x, käsebrot, and Borderline11 would come over here and set up shop in a new mod thread, but we'll have to see...

For the LED I just opened up the footswitch and had a squiz. It's got a 67k 1/4 watt resistor going from the outside lug on the switch to
the LED. I used some shielded cable I had left over from a pedal build and ran the wire around the PCB. Like the other posts say its just soldered to the footswitch jack. I soldered it straight on top, didn't have to remove anything.
I haven't tested to see how the pedal and switch play together, I was just happy that I got it to work!! lol

Cool - good job on that. I'm guessing that the LED will only show status for the panel switch, and that you have to have it in the OD position for the footswitch to work. Let me know what you find. I'm going to try implementing a switching jack this week like the post above suggests, which will make the footswitch work independent of panel switch.

[Tortuga]

TIME FOR A MINI-POLL!

I mentioned this a ways back (actually, I think we're on a new page now), but I think we need to have a separate mods thread to consolidate all the technical stuff in one place, and have this thread primarily be a gathering place for all general JCA-related stuff: resources, settings, devices that work in the loop, etc.

What do you think? One thread or two?

And, if we don't hear from Edge soon, should I or one of us that have been active go ahead and build one? However does it needs to reserve at least the first 3-5 postings so that links, schematics, resources, etc. can be consolidated like I did on this thread (idea is credited to Edge for what he did over on HCAF).

Thanks!

[Jase01]

With the front toggle in the OD position the LEDs on both work with the footswitch, can't positively tell how the channel switching sounds because it's a tad early here and my wife will almost certainly castrate me if I wake her!
The speaker outs and footswitch jacks are all PCB mounted on the 22h so it looks at a bit different to what you guys have.
I'll check that post out on HC and do so more research. Thanks again.

I defiantly think we should have a thread for each individual mod and one for overall discussions maybe, it's getting a bit hard to follow.
Over at HC it's over 20 something pages to look thru......
just my 2 cents

[Jay]

Grime, are you thinking one thread for ALL mods? Or one mod per thread? So......by the time I dig out my book of all the mods I have tried on my SLO clone and all the mods Edge has, and the bunch that we have just come up with, we will have another 60 threads? lol

[Jay]

thanks Grim, I kinda get everything, the switch etc. but was having trouble locating C30 on the 22h schematic, ( maybe I'm blind?)
Also does it matter where you connect the ground to? Anywhere as long as it's ground......
Yep, had another look and can't get my head around the C30 mystery, please translate to the 22h.

Jase - don't hold me to this, but looking at the two schematics and reviewing the last few pages on the mod thread lead me to belive that C30 on the 50H is C2 on the 22H, and R42 on the 50H is equivalent to R5 on the 22H. It's only slightly different in that particular part of the circuit, since C28 on the 50H is missing on the 22H. Borderline11 refers to that capacitor here: http://www.harmonycentral.com/t5/Amps/J ... 8#M6187792 . I believe he implemented the switch without worrying about the cap, which he deems a tone modifier on the 50. Unfortunately, I'm at the extent of my knowledge with this. I'd say you're safe in pulling the leg of C2 (22H) as I describe and go from there, disregarding the change for C28, since your amp obviously isn't running that cap. You might just want to post this as a question over at the HCAF thread, and see what you get. If I had my way, Motocooney, Soulcrusher_x, käsebrot, and Borderline11 would come over here and set up shop in a new mod thread, but we'll have to see...

For the LED I just opened up the footswitch and had a squiz. It's got a 67k 1/4 watt resistor going from the outside lug on the switch to
the LED. I used some shielded cable I had left over from a pedal build and ran the wire around the PCB. Like the other posts say its just soldered to the footswitch jack. I soldered it straight on top, didn't have to remove anything.
I haven't tested to see how the pedal and switch play together, I was just happy that I got it to work!! lol

Cool - good job on that. I'm guessing that the LED will only show status for the panel switch, and that you have to have it in the OD position for the footswitch to work. Let me know what you find. I'm going to try implementing a switching jack this week like the post above suggests, which will make the footswitch work independent of panel switch.

Also, if you get the chance, get two LEDs. I'm thinking that you can make two indicators, one for each channel, if you run it in parallel to the LDRs for either the preamp or the MV pots. So, run one across the switching signal path for VT1 and one across VT2. If the two LEDs switch back and forth, you can install them in the front panel for indicators.

[NOSNOR]

Hey man - good to have you - welcome to the happiest place on (virtual) earth. Now, if I could lure the rest of those guys on the JCA mod thread at HCAF - they've been going completely nuts over there and we need their talent here!

Mini switch is ok - should be a DPDT if you're intending to switch two different values, which I assume you're planning to do. 47k is the stock value and 33k is what CTN and I used, although I've heard 39k makes for good noise, too Don't quote me on this, but I think all the resistors in the signal path are 1/2 watt. CTN went with 1 watt, probably because he's extra brootalz on his stuff and needed the extra security You should be 200% (or is it 400%) covered with a 2 watt resistor, but it's going to be bulky. I wish I could give you a definitive answer - I'm hoping someone will chime in and confim that you'll be ok with the 1/2 watt.

What are you looking for with the slope mod? What kind of music do you play?

Thanks, it is great to be here with all of you JetCity lovers

About slope mod, I read that it gives little bit of Marshall vibe, and since I love those mid frequencies I hope it will give me one more option I like.
About music I play, here is song of my band in link below, but live it's a bit heavier sound than recorded.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3hS8Af4n7jg

I don't use old old 333 logo, so if you want, send me massage with your address and I will send it to you.

[Tortuga]

Good stuff from you guys - keep the discussion alive! I gotta go for a few hours - will try to respond better later tonight.

For now, I was thinking one mod thread with an index in the first postings (see how the first 3 are organized her) - I'd have links to the subsequent pages for relevant information, but I was thinking it'd all be one thread. I could certainly be persuaded otherwise, though!

Nosnor - PM sent! Thanks for the offer, dude!

[snapitup12]

Can these amps do metal tones with the depth mod and maybe a boost?

[Jase01]

Grime, are you thinking one thread for ALL mods? Or one mod per thread? So......by the time I dig out my book of all the mods I have tried on my SLO clone and all the mods Edge has, and the bunch that we have just come up with, we will have another 60 threads? lol

Shit! I didn't realise there was so many!

[Jase01]

Can these amps do metal tones with the depth mod and maybe a boost?

I reckon theres plenty of gain on tap, maybe change the preamp tubes to something hotter but with my Ibanez sabre and EMG's i think its a great amp! Not that I play much metal nowadays......
I used to jam with another guitarist and drummer and my 22h had plenty of volume and it's a LOT lighter to lug around!

[Hipster Salad]

Grime - I think at this point we should have a dedicated diy/mod thread; I like how the one at HC is. 1 mod per post, so it can be linked for quick reference? Just my $0.02


And the Earhart won't be modded. Only thing is *maybe* re-tolex it in Regency Blue like the demo model. Gigged with it last night actually, with the Jettenuator. You'll have to ask Matt, KCTigerChief, and Professor Dickweed their thoughts on it because I only heard what came back at me through the stage monitors.

Here's a rig pic from last night:



Fap away, gentlemen. Fap away . . .

[Tortuga]

Can these amps do metal tones with the depth mod and maybe a boost?

I play metal stuff all the time, but not sure it's the same thing as what you're looking for. I don't do the modern stuff much at all - I play blues, rock, hard rock, 70s/80s metal, some alternative stuff, etc., and I think the amp is more than a perfect match for my capabilities and gear. I feel like I get really good tone and have more than sufficient gain than I need with plenty of tonal control for everything I do - without pedals (although recently I've started dabbling with those as well).

The depth mod went a long way towards giving me huge control over bass. If you read the rest of this posting, you'll see that pretty much everyone agrees.

I highly recommend this amp for all my needs. It's built very good, is a fairly well documented design, provides a very solid platform for mods, was relatively inexpensive, and sounds friggin' great if you ask me.

Why don't you give it a try and let us know what you think?

[Tortuga]

Grime - I think at this point we should have a dedicated diy/mod thread; I like how the one at HC is. 1 mod per post, so it can be linked for quick reference? Just my $0.02


And the Earhart won't be modded. Only thing is *maybe* re-tolex it in Regency Blue like the demo model. Gigged with it last night actually, with the Jettenuator. You'll have to ask Matt, KCTigerChief, and Professor Dickweed their thoughts on it because I only heard what came back at me through the stage monitors.

Here's a rig pic from last night:



Fap away, gentlemen. Fap away . . .

Wow dude, just wow. That looks fuk'n killer. I'm sure it sounds even better. Doug & Co wouldn't have taken it that far if it wasn't the shizzle. I'm not a fan of that bright blue tolex, though, so if my vote matters at all , leave it as-is. And I was totally kidding about modding that thing - it oughta be in a museum or rocking out on stage - not on someone's bench getting open-heart surgery.

[Hipster Salad]

Grime - I think at this point we should have a dedicated diy/mod thread; I like how the one at HC is. 1 mod per post, so it can be linked for quick reference? Just my $0.02


And the Earhart won't be modded. Only thing is *maybe* re-tolex it in Regency Blue like the demo model. Gigged with it last night actually, with the Jettenuator. You'll have to ask Matt, KCTigerChief, and Professor Dickweed their thoughts on it because I only heard what came back at me through the stage monitors.

Here's a rig pic from last night:



Fap away, gentlemen. Fap away . . .

Wow dude, just wow. That looks fuk'n killer. I'm sure it sounds even better. Doug & Co wouldn't have taken it that far if it wasn't the shizzle. I'm not a fan of that bright blue tolex, though, so if my vote matters at all , leave it as-is. And I was totally kidding about modding that thing - it oughta be in a museum or rocking out on stage - not on someone's bench getting open-heart surgery.

Yeah if they were production models, and if I felt it needed modding, it likely would. But being the rare bird it is, it's staying stock and sounds more than good enough on its own.

This gets me to wanting to see about modding the JCA100H for EL34s. After finally spending time with an EL34 amp after years and years with loads of 6L6 amps, I can say I prefer an EL34 base over 6L6. Mainly due to the loose character on the lower end as opposed to a tighter more articulate character I've typically found with 6L6. I'm not a djent or metal player so I don't need 'ninja lows' or anything super tight, but being more a fan of old school Marshall recordings that's more along what I like.

[Tortuga]

So on the mods front - what if:
* Each mod gets its own thread in the DYI Area (JCA Depth Mod, JCA Clean/Crunch Switch, etc.)
* Another thread gets set up for technical materials (schematics, detailed gut shots, etc.) - also in the DIY area
* All these threads are listed and linked in an index here (3rd posting on page 1, along with the other links)

I think the index / reference thing would be really great. I go back to the front page of the HCAF mod thread all the time to look at the schematics and mods either when I'm corresponding here or working on my own mods (even though the schematic for the 50 there is different from my version, which matches my actual amplifier a bit closer). And, while I'm thinking of it, I believe I will go ahead and start a JCA schematics / reference materials thread and post my copies there - at least it's a start.

Last thing (and this is kind of important to me), I really don't think it's appropriate to grab Edge11's stuff and move it here without his blessing. Most of the drawings, snippets, etc. that are on that thread came from him. There's plenty of us and a bunch of new guys there who have also contributed heavily to the knowledge base over there, but he kicked it off, gave it some teeth, and put some serious time and effort into what I think is a pretty cool thing.

Sorry 'bout the soapbox. I'm a bit frustrated about this. I wish I could get his attention, but I know he's busy. I wish he'd just say do it - and it'd be done...

[Tortuga]

This gets me to wanting to see about modding the JCA100H for EL34s. After finally spending time with an EL34 amp after years and years with loads of 6L6 amps, I can say I prefer an EL34 base over 6L6. Mainly due to the loose character on the lower end as opposed to a tighter more articulate character I've typically found with 6L6. I'm not a djent or metal player so I don't need 'ninja lows' or anything super tight, but being more a fan of old school Marshall recordings that's more along what I like.

Did you see the stuff we've been posting above about the voicing switch? I don't have a ton of experience with EL34-based amps, but I truly believe the voicing switch that CTN and I did get us in that realm. It sounds like we're both looking for a bit more 'elasticity' and 'feel' to the sound, which I've been experiencing with that switch. A couple bux and a couple hours' work, and you may find a bit of what you're looking for. And, if you or someone ever do successfully convert over to EL34's, I'd be extremely interested in hearing the outcome. That said, I do seem to recall the Valve Queen running KT66's in her JCA, and I think FRPC was doing same. I guess that'd be good reference links to post here, eh?

[Hipster Salad]

This gets me to wanting to see about modding the JCA100H for EL34s. After finally spending time with an EL34 amp after years and years with loads of 6L6 amps, I can say I prefer an EL34 base over 6L6. Mainly due to the loose character on the lower end as opposed to a tighter more articulate character I've typically found with 6L6. I'm not a djent or metal player so I don't need 'ninja lows' or anything super tight, but being more a fan of old school Marshall recordings that's more along what I like.

Did you see the stuff we've been posting above about the voicing switch? I don't have a ton of experience with EL34-based amps, but I truly believe the voicing switch that CTN and I did get us in that realm. It sounds like we're both looking for a bit more 'elasticity' and 'feel' to the sound, which I've been experiencing with that switch. A couple bux and a couple hours' work, and you may find a bit of what you're looking for. And, if you or someone ever do successfully convert over to EL34's, I'd be extremely interested in hearing the outcome. That said, I do seem to recall the Valve Queen running KT66's in her JCA, and I think FRPC was doing same. I guess that'd be good reference links to post here, eh?

Yeah FRPC has KT66 tubes in his currently, and IMO that sort of bridges the gap between 6L6 and EL34. He did a quick demo with EL34 and I thought they sounded great, but it isn't safe to run them.

With the indexing/referencing, I think that would be a great format. Example, scoop mod gets its own 'post' in the mod thread, that way you can isolate mods and jump right to it when linking to the mod. I think all relevant schems, gut shots, tutorials, etc for that specific mod should be in the same post, unless you think it would exceed the character count. I guess we would have to weigh out how many mods there are vs how much mod specific info there is.

Maybe a new sub section on the board? Sort of how RT has manufacturer specific sub sections. That might be a better solution so the amp section here isn't 'clogged' (maybe that's not the right word) with 17 Jet City threads on the front page.

[Jay]

Can these amps do metal tones with the depth mod and maybe a boost?

Even without the boost, they can do metal very nicely. If you don't think so, try a boost, and if not, I have a few mods to get to do metal with ease....even some to get it close to 5150 territory.