Y0UNGBL00D wrote:might cut my teeth on a basic 112 soon. i definitely was looking into roundover bits and a router. cant hang with the square corners.
Routed corners are definitely way nicer than square corners. And that's where the "glue and screw" method can be problematic as the screwhead could overlap where the roundover begins, so in that case you're best off to countersink the screw and use wood filler to plug the hole. Helps the screw disappear anyways so you have the option of finishing the wood or tolexing. Pretty much the same effect as the dowel method I used on the cab in this thread.
FWIW I never found tolexing that difficult. The stain/urethane thing is a much bigger pain in the ass - it literally takes days, whereas you can do a tolex job in less than an hour.
I usually use wood putty / filler in the counter sunk screw holes, after rounding over and a light sanding, the holes effectivly disappear for the purpose of Tolex application. Dowls work well but are overkill unless you are going to stain the cabinet. You are correct that Tolexing is not difficult at all. If you have an idea of how to get started and what materials are involved, it's pretty easy to get acceptable results.
Another nice option for the roundover/screw dilemma - Use regular screws to put the cabinet together. After the glue has set, back them out, drill, and replace them with small glued-in dowels. These can then be cut off/sanded flush, and you can roundover to your hearts content. Looks cool stained too.