Vertical/angled 2x12 cab build

[SenatorClayDavis]

Just finishing this up. Had a pair of speakers I wasn't using and haven't been able to sell, so built a cab to put 'em in since I had enough plywood lying around.



Here's the baffle:


Went with the upper speaker being open-backed. Still have to figure out exactly what I'm going to do for the jack.


Hopefully will get it all wired up today or tomorrow and fire it up.

[Dickarms]

oh you cant just lay it on me like that, i want contruction details, man!

mainly because this would be a perfect cab for my rehearsal spot and im getting the build itch

[Dickarms]

looks awesome, btw

[ovid9]

Damn, that looks sexy! Nice work!

[SenatorClayDavis]

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[SenatorClayDavis]

Used fir ply. I don't have the ability to do rabbet/dado or fingerjoints or anything like, so it's a glue and dowel job for the corners. I did the ol' glue and screw in order to keep everything tight, then once the glue was dry I took out screws, drilled out the hole, and put in dowel. Disappears pretty well after stain/poly, and no issues when using the router to round over the corners. Well braced/cleated inside so should be a good strong cab.

I basically copied the dimensions of my whitebox 2x12, but split the two speakers into different chambers and angled the baffle on the open-backed one. I've always thought in theory this would be the perfect 2x12, so I guess now we'll see if that's true.

[Dickarms]

i was toying with somewhat of the same idea. so the two speakers have their own chambers? would it be cool to make separate backs for each so you could do like closed back bottom, open backed top or something?

[SenatorClayDavis]

Yeah each chamber is the same dimensions - basically there's a partition down the middle of the cab. So while I currently have the bottom sealed off and the top open-backed, I could easily switch the panels around so the top is closed and the bottom open.

[Casey4s]

Looks good Nice job.

[Dickarms]

i would say make panels to make them both closed or both open (assuming you wouldnt want to just remove all back panels in that instance), but it does pose an interesting problem with the jack panel, like you mentioned.

maybe a vertical hole for wiring, siliconed for sealing, and jack panel on the top of the cab, provided whatever head you're using has enough depth left over when placed on top. i think a top mounted speaker jack could be cool.

[SenatorClayDavis]

Got it wired up and played the Redbear through it today, sounded good.

I'm pretty set on the sealed lower chamber/open upper chamber as I did run a pair of 2x12s in various configurations (both open; both sealed; open top/sealed bottom; open bottom/sealed top) in the past and have decided that for a good sound in the room that's my ideal setup.

So yeah I drilled through the middle/divider panel thing, ran my speaker wire through it and caulked it. For the jack I just added a little piece that hangs down below the top panel. Pics later for those interested.

[Casey4s]

It looks great, but the important thing is it works as intended.

[SenatorClayDavis]

Yeah works as intended. While I prefer the tone of a sealed-back cab in general, open backed cabs are cool for cleans, and are better dispersed within the room, so this gives me both. Mostly this cab is going to get run in conjunction with a pair of sealed cabs at my practice space. I don't see myself recording or gigging with it but if I have a jam going somewhere or am doing the post-rock thing on my own I'll use this thing for sure. I dig how it sounds good wherever you are in the room.

BTW Eminence Tonkerlites in it. So pretty chimey, tight low end, but also overall fairly neutral. And the cab is light, so that's a bonus.

[SenatorClayDavis]

It looks great, but the important thing is it works as intended.

Also I dig your box jig setup dude. Maybe I'll try to get something like that going next time I build a cab.

[Casey4s]

It looks great, but the important thing is it works as intended.

Also I dig your box jig setup dude. Maybe I'll try to get something like that going next time I build a cab.

Cool if yu have any questions later just ask.

[Dickarms]

pics of said box jig?

[Casey4s]

pics of said box jig?

Click on the link in my signature "DIY box joint jig & videos" There are photos and several short videos showing the jig in action.

I used that jig to create these joints:

[Dickarms]

[Dickarms]

i cant really get what going on from the pics, let me try the vids.

ah, table router?

[Casey4s]

i cant really get what going on from the pics, let me try the vids.

ah, table router?

I shot most of the videos with the dust collector removed so it would be easier to see what is going on. I can do two panels at one time as in two amp sides. It cuts through knots pretty well if the knots are secure. I built the jig in 2003 to do that Walnut amp cabinet, but I didn't take the photos or videos until late in 2011.


It's basically a sled to slide over my wouter table with a backboard and a control notch to maintain exact cut spacing. I laminated some plexi to the wood so it would slide easier and the workpiece wouldn't bind up. I can do a complete amp cabinet in about 10 minutes. And it will handle some pretty large panel pieces, like for a 4 x 12 cabinet etc,.

[Dickarms]

thats awesome. ive wanted to build a cab forever, but was scared to do joints.

will probbaly still be a while though, as i have only rudimentary wood tools

[Casey4s]

That's a Porter Cable 690 router in an inexpensive Sears benchtop router table, that I mounted to a rolling cabinet. The bit is not a normal router bit, it's actually a 1/2" "mill end" that I got off of eBay. A regular router bit would probably burn up in no time, mill ends are for CNC machines and are used to mill steel with.

[Casey4s]

thats awesome. ive wanted to build a cab forever, but was scared to do joints.

will probbaly still be a while though, as i have only rudimentary wood tools

You can build a nice cabinet with glue and screw joints. If you are going to cover the cabinet in Tolex, a glue and screw joint is fine and sturdy if done correctly. No need for fancy tools. A good basic circular saw, and drill is all that's really needed. A router and a roundover bit would be the next tool you'd want to do cabinets with. I built several nice cabinets in Tolex before I ever owned a router back in 1996-98.

You just need to get a bit of confidence and jump in and get started.

[Dickarms]

might cut my teeth on a basic 112 soon. i definitely was looking into roundover bits and a router. cant hang with the square corners.

[Casey4s]

might cut my teeth on a basic 112 soon. i definitely was looking into roundover bits and a router. cant hang with the square corners.

I hear you. My very first cabinet was a 1 x 12 extension cabinet to mimic my Fender Super 112 amp. I had no router so I built it from plywood and rounded the edges and corners with a wood rasp. It was covered in Tolex and you can't tell.

But a router and roudover bit is Much Much better, if you can afford a router, that is definatly the easy way with more consistant results.

Do you have any expierience with Tolex application? If not, click the Tolex link in my signature.