Guitar Gear Forum

This isn't a question on if I'm doing Epoxy, but WHAT epoxy. Every forum I see just says "epoxy", but what kind of epoxy is it? Am I missing something, or am I just dumb as frick?

For anyone who cares, I have an Ibanez g10 Mikro that I want to justify keeping because it was a gift, so it's going without frets. I want to go full Jaco on this mf.

Or, what kind of Epoxy does fender use on the Jaco signature? all the fender website says is "epoxy". I played one at guitar center and it's fucking sweet

I just want to say that I picked up one of those Mikro basses at Red River Music and plugged it in to an SWR bass combo and that little fucker sounded SO good.....I was shocked. Slap n pops for dayz....

I just bought some random 2 part epoxy at home depot, did it to a cort p bass copy about 12 years ago, still looks fine.

Devin wrote:I just want to say that I picked up one of those Mikro basses at Red River Music and plugged it in to an SWR bass combo and that little fucker sounded SO good.....I was shocked. Slap n pops for dayz....

It surprised me too. They sound very good. I was gonna replace the pickups, but then I kept playing the stock pups and decided against it. it would be a waste of money

rock flag and eagle wrote:I just bought some random 2 part epoxy at home depot, did it to a cort p bass copy about 12 years ago, still looks fine.

like.... JB weld?

I think I used envirotex lite

Luthier groups I follow on facebook recommend using West System epoxies and "marine epoxy". I would look for something with a reasonably long setup time; not the 5-minute JB Weld and such at Home Depot. You are going to want to apply it evenly over the fretboard, and my experience with the 5-minute stuff is that it won't give you long enough to get even. That would mean more sanding afterwards. I would also look into getting a radius'ed sanding block to match the radius on the fretboard: http://www.lmii.com/products/tools-serv ... ius-blocks

One other caveat for the epoxy is that it needs to have a relatively high glass transition temperature (which the West System stuff, apparently, does). Once you sand it it, you'll want to polish/buff it. Some stuff has a transition temp around 100/105. That's low enough to start turning back into goo with some heavy sanding/buffing. West System is supposed to be around 150.

jgreenwd wrote:Luthier groups I follow on facebook recommend using West System epoxies and "marine epoxy". I would look for something with a reasonably long setup time; not the 5-minute JB Weld and such at Home Depot. You are going to want to apply it evenly over the fretboard, and my experience with the 5-minute stuff is that it won't give you long enough to get even. That would mean more sanding afterwards. I would also look into getting a radius'ed sanding block to match the radius on the fretboard: http://www.lmii.com/products/tools-serv ... ius-blocks

One other caveat for the epoxy is that it needs to have a relatively high glass transition temperature (which the West System stuff, apparently, does). Once you sand it it, you'll want to polish/buff it. Some stuff has a transition temp around 100/105. That's low enough to start turning back into goo with some heavy sanding/buffing. West System is supposed to be around 150.

https://www.westsystem.com/105-epoxy-resin/
Something like this?

Probably. I can't find the hgtt / hgtv on the MSDS, but it's most likely good.

jgreenwd wrote:Probably. I can't find the hgtt / hgtv on the MSDS, but it's most likely good.

The what/what on the what?

"high glass transition temperature" - the "turns back into goo" temp

jgreenwd wrote:"high glass transition temperature" - the "turns back into goo" temp

gotcha. Do you know any Epoxy's that you know work?

Just found the right data-sheet for the 105 epoxy. It's good up to 126ºF. So, it should be fine. Definitely use the 206 hardener, though. The 207 "clear" is only good up to 117ºF.

Perfect. Thanks!