Guitar Gear Forum

...takes...





I followed some dudes blog about how he did his and he started with an orbital sander at 220 grit. Come to find you really need 60 grit, a sanding block, and patience of a saint. Good thing my studio's pups won't be here for 4 weeks.

Yeah dude... I was gonna sand one to the wood, tried a spot & it was brutal. I decided to just surface sand that one & paint right over it.
But Ive got my Destroyer that Im taking to the wood, & all advice points to a torch & scraper.
Hearing someone using an orbital & 220... shit. That would be one hell of a thin finish, or that dude had 700 spare months to do it!

Yeah, it's ridiculous. I'm buying some 60 grit sheets for my orbital so I can do the back and just elbow greasing the sides and neck. Fucking guy didn't mention once that it took him ages.

Fuck. All. Of. That. Manual. Labor.

Yeah, that would suck.

I tried to take that plasticy finish off a cheap strat body once. Good thing I got it for ~$10 because after a few hours of hell that puppy went in the trash.

I'd be careful with that 60 grit. Once you start hitting wood, it'll disappear fast - especially at the edges / roundovers.

Well, I've only used 80 so far. Maybe I'll stick with that. They say the key is to keep the paper clean with a compressor or something.

Just FUCK doing this. Hate it

Yeah I actually want to have my buddy do a custom paint job on one of my Mammoths. I am not looking forward to getting it "nekkid"...

3 hours of sanding today. Sides done by hand. Back done by orbital. Neck is almost done but it was getting too cold in my garage and I was starting to rush it so, I stopped. First and last time ever doing this.

I've stripped 80's shredders that had thick poly finishes.

propane torch + putty knife = the only way that shit's coming off.

Where do you get your tru oil, broslinger? I think the only place that has it around here in walmart. What's the method of application, as well?

I got mine online - and the method I used are both in my thread here.

RyanDistortion wrote:Where do you get your tru oil, broslinger? I think the only place that has it around here in walmart. What's the method of application, as well?

I got it at a gun store. I apply with a high quality, non-linty, 100% cotton t shirt cut into pieces. wear gloves.

It takes a few applications. Tru oil will attract dust and lint during application and drying. you will need to lightly sand between coats.

mamberg wrote:I got mine online - and the method I used are both in my thread here.

Thanks for that. I will refer to it.

BroSlinger wrote:I've stripped 80's shredders that had thick poly finishes.

propane torch + putty knife = the only way that shit's coming off.

That's what I did for my Charvel model 6, except I used a heat gun. Got the finish off in no time.

facefirst wrote:

BroSlinger wrote:I've stripped 80's shredders that had thick poly finishes.

propane torch + putty knife = the only way that shit's coming off.

That's what I did for my Charvel model 6, except I used a heat gun. Got the finish off in no time.

Hmmm... I have a heat gun

Sounds like woman's work.

It's tedious like sewing

Day 1 (3-4 hours)

Wonder if you can soak the finish off

I knew. Lol.

But for me, spending all day stripping a finish off isn't "forever", its how long it takes. Although a Gibson finished in lacquer really is one of the easier ones.

Although, if you are just going to use sandpaper ,you might find some of the little nooks and crannies a bit tough to get. I.E the sides of the headstock and the top detail, the area where the body connects to the neck etc. You can get them with paper and certain backing blocks.
I would use wood scrapers and even a dremel for tight areas or anywhere i need some extra power in a small area

For the top carve, you can certainly re-shape the top if you are too aggressive with an orbital sander. And too slow to do by hand. I would tape off the wood you've already sanded and use a chemical stripper and a scraper/sharp edged putty knife to get the majority of the finish off. Then do any final finish removal and sanding by hand. Still takes some time to do right, but if you are uncomfortable using a machine sander on top, Then i would easily recommend using a chemical stripper over sanding it completely by hand.

The top is staying. Neck, back, and sides stripped and then tru oil finish. I saw another guy do it and it looks great. Those hard to reach areas will be difficult, as you stated. I'll see what I can get my hands on.

Guitars are evil. The more torture they suffer, the better.