Guitar Gear Forum

The inmadout transformers are great but they're bright sounding and very focused.

I prefer the onetics but they cost twice as much cut it's really worth it imho.

Bls electronics also make some excellent transformers and I'd say they are priced in between the two and are also in between quality and sonically.

I never got on with the igp ones in the slo circuit as I find they were too bass heavy.

I have some comparison clips somewhere I will dig them out for you after work.

This took a little longer than i expected

Heres the same clip done using two virtually identical builds other than the transformers and choke

Onetics
https://soundcloud.com/diy-audio/onetics

InMadOut
https://soundcloud.com/diy-audio/craig- ... rows-amp-1

Toe-Knee wrote:This took a little longer than i expected

Heres the same clip done using two virtually identical builds other than the transformers and choke

Onetics
https://soundcloud.com/diy-audio/onetics

InMadOut
https://soundcloud.com/diy-audio/craig- ... rows-amp-1

Tones aside (they're great), that's a fucking awesome song!

Reminds me of some of the more metallic skate-punk bands of the late 90s/early 00s, like Strung Out.

I finally found output transformer with all good reviews and it's also budged friendly. Hammond 1650T:

https://www.tube-town.net//info/hammond ... lassic.pdf

Now I have to find another hammond for power!

I have an InMadOut OT and I can't fault it. I do need to strip down the amp its in and build something else in it.

For power I'm a big fan of toroidal transformers as they can be custom wound cheaply, they're less noisy and lighter. I've just ordered a custom 0-290VAC@450mA (~380VDC@320mA), 6.3VAC@4.2A PT for a 30W class A PP EL34 build and it came to £50 shipped. The PT is somewhat overwound but it gives me options to play with different tubes.

That is so cool. I would love to build one of those. Keep the progress up brother.

After few weeks I finally found time to work on this project

bump?

Hi,
I working on my SLO project for a while, and I don't know if my wiring is correct. I'm not really an expert so I need help from you guys. I order transformers from INMADOUT, but they have to many wires, so I'm not sure if I connected them correctly.





Thanks.

Cap off the grey ct. If you getting this you will fry the switching rectifier that is 6

The other grey 60v is your bias tap this goes the bias input on the power pcb.

Everything else seems right you can ignore the 5v stuff isn't needed

Thanks, what about grounding, are all wires that supposed to be grounded connected to same grounding point on chassis? I find out that on the web that wires (10,13) should be connected to different grounding point? Is this true, or is not so important?

Some people ground the hv c.f. at the first filter cap .

I however have never had do this in any my builds.

All of my grounds go to a star ground just behind the faux centre tap other than the heater ct which goes to the power pcb but that's only when using elevated heaters

Thanks for quick answer! For now I have only one little problem... Resistor R62 (61.9R 1W), I can't get it What if I use 56R or 68R instead?

am_i_evil wrote:Thanks for quick answer! For now I have only one little problem... Resistor R62 (61.9R 1W), I can't get it What if I use 56R or 68R instead?

The 68R should work in its place without any issue.

What i would do though is get 2x 33R and put them in series as its a little closer that is of course if you can get 33R.

Make sure that the wattage is ~2w minimum or 1w each if you go for the 33r in series

Are you going to be making some faceplates for your chassis? If so I may grab a few off you.

Also I just noticed from your pictures that you seem to be using a metal washer on your input jack. This will cause you grounding issues. All of the jacks should be isolated from the chassis other than the footswitch jack & SLave out Jack

"Are you going to be making some faceplates for your chassis? If so I may grab a few off you."

I was thinking about this, but I haven't decide yet. I have option to get custom faceplate from this guys

http://www.jamitfx.com/

I talk to the guys, and they can make me faceplate for 30€ with their type of design. But I would like to get similar faceplate like Marshall (gold), because it looks great with this large pointer knobs.

Toe-knee: modulusamplification.com do custom faceplate for reasonable prices. I've yet to order anything from them but the stuff like good.

I will be starting an SLO Clone build soon too. So this thread is definitely great. Good luck!

Quick question for those in the know.

If I get a Power PCB that doesn't have the mod section on it (for DC or Elevated Heaters), is it difficult to switch the amp over from regular AC to Elevated AC? Requires two resistors and a cap, right? I'd have to find a place to mount them. Or should I just get a PCB with the mod section already on it? I'm not sure if I'm even going to do Elevated Heaters yet. I want to see how the amp sounds with regular AC first. Or should I just go for it?

FourT6and2 wrote:I will be starting an SLO Clone build soon too. So this thread is definitely great. Good luck!

Quick question for those in the know.

If I get a Power PCB that doesn't have the mod section on it (for DC or Elevated Heaters), is it difficult to switch the amp over from regular AC to Elevated AC? Requires two resistors and a cap, right? I'd have to find a place to mount them. Or should I just get a PCB with the mod section already on it? I'm not sure if I'm even going to do Elevated Heaters yet. I want to see how the amp sounds with regular AC first. Or should I just go for it?

I already explained where you can do it without a different power PCB on the sloclone forums. But it's a really simple operation to change if you need any help don't hesitate to ask.

Toe-Knee wrote:

FourT6and2 wrote:I will be starting an SLO Clone build soon too. So this thread is definitely great. Good luck!

Quick question for those in the know.

If I get a Power PCB that doesn't have the mod section on it (for DC or Elevated Heaters), is it difficult to switch the amp over from regular AC to Elevated AC? Requires two resistors and a cap, right? I'd have to find a place to mount them. Or should I just get a PCB with the mod section already on it? I'm not sure if I'm even going to do Elevated Heaters yet. I want to see how the amp sounds with regular AC first. Or should I just go for it?

I already explained where you can do it without a different power PCB on the sloclone forums. But it's a really simple operation to change if you need any help don't hesitate to ask.

Awesome, just saw your post. Thanks! I had a few questions that I threw up in that thread. I'll build the amp the regular way and try Elevated Heaters if I encounter any noise.

Progress...























This is not finished, it is still empty inside

Looking great so far, love the snakeskin

Can't wait to hear how it sounds - looking great!!!

Amazing build so far! Can't wait to see how it turns out!

Couple of questions for you...

You said you used a hammond OT, Did you manage to find a hammond PT as well? If not, what did you go with?

Also, where did you get that blank chassis from? I been looking everywhere for one big enough that doesn't cost an arm and a leg!

Thanks in advance!

Hello Emerex, sorry for late reply, I change my mind and use instead of Hammond, InMadOut transformers. You could find a lot about this transformers on web. Reason for that is, because I don't have a lot of experience with electronics...so I didn't want to complicate...

I made chassis with my friend who has all needed equipment for that Then I find one (soldano specs) on tubetown for 30€, I think this is good price.